In our ramblings through Tuscany, we once stayed at an agritourism wine farm just outside of San Gimignano (Pierluigi e Luciana Giachi, www.torciano.com). We could see the famous towers of San Gimignano, which define that ancient town, off in the distance. We were actually staying in the town of Ulignano – you can imagine it as one of those places where if you blinked, you miss it. Further on to the north and still heading farther away from San Gimignano is the city of Certaldo. No towers here. It is a far more modern city and has a rail link to the rest of Italy.
Within walking distance from that railroad station is a funicular that will take you up to the old, upper city, Certaldo Alto. This charming medieval walled city is the origin of modern Certaldo, and is typical in that it is high up on a mountaintop in a defensive position from attack. It is a different world here high above the Val d'Elsa. Similar to San Gimignano, but without all the tourists, it features a long main street (Via Boccaccio). Different though, it has a extensive medieval fortress (Il Palazzo Pretorio) at the upper end of Via Boccaccio whose outside walls are covered with heraldic coats of arms of the various governors appointed by Florence who occupied the castle following the rule to the Alberti family. The men and women’s dungeons are the place to visit, you can just imagine what it must have been like to have been a guest there!
In addition to the palace, we best recall the “upper city” for the face of the god Backus we purchased there (which now hangs in our kitchen not far from the corkscrew) and the small, family run sandwich shop we discovered. It is located on the left side of Via Boccaccio about three quarters of the way to the palace and just past an old well. Its name eludes me but it’s easy to find.
We have been there twice now. The first time of course was all discovery while the second time was to reminisce. Even in the span of only the few years which separated our visits, things had already changed - the sandwich shop in particular. When first we visited, it was mostly a small market for local residents with isles of packaged and canned goods and a deli, demarcated from the rest of the establishment by the glass faced cooler at the far end. Some of the cans, like the olive cans and the cans of marinated artichokes were open, beckoning a passerby to reach in. It is not a large place by any means. There was only enough room for a few isles in addition to the shelves adorning the sidewalls.
On our return, however, it had become mostly a sandwich place and less of a market. It was also apparent that the proprietors had changed which may account for the change in business emphasis. A mother and her son now oversee operations. A mezzo liter of the house red and a custom-made roast pork and provolone sandwich is ambrosia! Everything can be defined right down to the thickness of the crusty Italian bread they’ll slice for you. And don’t forget to include one (or two) of those olive oil soaked artichokes to go along with whatever else you may order, we didn’t!
Enjoy and Buon Natale
Paolo